ART PRACTICE
EXHIBITIONS ARTISTICCOLLABORATIONS
CSC x MARTA ROBERTIFOR CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFTx MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI FOR
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFTx MICKALENE THOMAS FOR
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFTx OLESIA TROFYMENKO FOR
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFTx MADHVI & MANU PAREKH
FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFTx JUDY CHICAGO FOR
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANAKYA SCHOOL OF CRAFT+ MOONRAY x JAI VAKEEL
05 / 10
Chanakya School of Craft x Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior
2023
An artistic collaboration with Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Dior Fall show on March 30, 2023 set the stage for another monumental installation by the Chanakya School of Craft — The Toran: an ephemeral, site-specific public artwork, the Chanakya Ateliers and Chanakya School of Craft, under the stewardship of Karishma Swali, imagined the 46-foot-tall installation as a poetic representation of the power of craft and community.
DIOR x CHANAKYA
“The art of a people is a true mirror to their minds.”
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
The inherent beauty of traditional craftsmanship is visible not only in museums and collections all over the world but also in the everyday life and practice of craftspeople. Drawing inspiration from both history and contemporary contexts, Chanakya is committed to both preserving and redefining age-old traditions, ensuring their enduring cultural, communal, and global relevance.
THE RETROSPECTIVE
Building upon the illustrious heritage of the House of Dior alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, the exclusive Chanakya x Dior retrospective showcased 50 meticulously hand-embroidered archival pieces created in collaboration with Chanakya, spanning across 16 couture and prêt-à-porter collections. Every season, Chanakya collaborates closely with the historic maison to push boundaries in various realms of craft and design, crafting couture, ready-to-wear, accessories, and fine art.
To offer insight into this creative journey, each showcased dress was presented through a craft lens, accompanied by its miniature design reference, raw materials, and contemporary interpretations of traditional craft techniques.
Vintage Archives
Chanakya’s private collection includes over 10,000 rare global art antiquities and craft objects spanning 1000 years, each marked by their immense diversity, regional differences based on their usage, influenced by geography, and weighted by historical and cultural narratives. Notable pieces on display included a series of Victorian dresses from the 19th century, an embroidered cape gifted to an emperor of the Ming dynasty from the 18th century, 20th century central-Asian Ikat robes, Indian nomadic wear, and several fine examples of phulkari from Punjab.
The Toran by Chanakya School
of Craft for Christian Dior
“The Gateway, revered as a symbolic ceremonial entrance to India, provided a poignant metaphor for this intimate collaboration.”
KARISHMA SWALI
The Dior Fall 2023 show set the stage for another monumental installation: The Toran, an ephemeral, site-specific public artwork meticulously handcrafted by the artisans of the Chanakya School of Craft, under the guidance of Karishma Swali. Standing at 46 feet tall, this installation served as a poetic testament to the profound impact of craft and community. Rooted in cross-cultural influences, heritage, and traditional materials, it embodied a shared reverence for Indian craftsmanship. Drawing upon their design vocabulary, the female artisans of the Chanakya School of Craft and the master artisans from the Chanakya Atelier handcrafted The Toran, infusing it with layers of social and cultural context.
The base comprised natural fibers that capture the purity of their message: a joyful coming together of craft and community. Over 300 artisans worked together over several months, requiring 35,000 hours of handwork to complete this piece, instinctively employing 25 craft techniques including phulkari, mirror work, french knotting, and kantha. Folk iconography inherently linked to artisanal traditions was captured throughout the work, including elephants, mandalas, lotus, the kamadhenu, tigers, and peacocks.
THE DIOR FALL 2023 SHOW AT
THE GATEWAY OF INDIA, MUMBAI
The Dior Fall 2023 show, set against the iconic backdrop of the Gateway of India, marked a celebration of the pluralistic beauty of Indian craftsmanship. For over 25 years, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of Dior Women’s Lines, and Karishma Swali, Creative Director of Chanakya International, have collaborated to explore the diverse landscape of Indian craftsmanship, blending tradition with innovation.
TThis cross-cultural exchange manifested in a collection that reinterpreted traditional techniques through a contemporary lens, incorporating indigenous crafts like aari, applique, zardozi, block printing, couching, and mirror work, capturing the vibrant essence of India while paying homage to its cultural heritage. The collection also featured Jardin Indien toile de jouy adorned with symbols like tigers, peacocks, and banyan trees, with the use of mirrors, microbeads and filigree lace.
T From bright rani pinks and deep jamuni purples to radiant yellows, each hue found its place on sumptuous silks, evening coats, embroidered jackets, and sari-inspired skirts. Across seasons, this creative partnership maintains its commitment to honoring and preserving craft traditions, showcasing the exceptional skill of Indian craftspeople.
